Bought a phone that turned out to be blacklisted? Your options
What a blacklisted phone is, why it can’t be fixed by a third party, and how to get your money back in the UK or US.
7 minute read Facts checked 25 October 2026
You’ve bought a phone, put your SIM card in, and it won’t connect. No signal, no calls, maybe a message saying the phone is blocked. Or you ran a check and it came back saying the phone has been reported. Either way, it’s an awful feeling, especially when you paid good money for it.
This guide explains what a blacklisting is, why it can’t be wiped away by a repair shop or a website, and how to get your money back. There’s a lot you can do, and most of it starts with the seller and the way you paid.
What “blacklisted” means
Every phone has its own 15-digit number, the IMEI. When a phone is reported lost or stolen, its network adds that number to a list of phones that shouldn’t be allowed to connect. Networks share these lists with each other, including through an international register run by the mobile industry body, the GSMA. When a blocked phone tries to join a network that checks the list, it’s turned away.
Phones also end up on the list for other reasons. A network may block a phone bought on a contract that was never paid for, or one linked to fraud.
Two things are worth knowing straight away:
- It isn’t an Apple or Google lock. A blacklisting is held by mobile networks. A phone can be blocked by the networks and still set up perfectly well, or the other way round.
- The phone may still work on Wi-Fi. The block stops it using mobile networks. It doesn’t switch the phone off, which is why some people don’t notice for days.
How to tell if yours is
A phone that says “No Service” or “SIM not supported” isn’t always blacklisted. It might simply be locked to a different network, which is a much smaller problem. Our guide to checking whether a phone is unlocked explains the difference.
The clearest answer comes from a check on the IMEI. You’ll find the IMEI in the phone’s settings, on the box, or by typing *#06# into the keypad. If you’re not sure how, we have a step-by-step guide to finding your IMEI. See where to find it.
For a fuller picture of what different checks can and can’t show, read what an IMEI check can tell you.
Who can lift a blacklisting
Only the network that added the report can take it off, and usually only when there’s a good reason. The most common ones are that the owner has got the phone back and asks for it to be removed, or that an unpaid bill has been settled.
No repair shop, unlocking website or app can remove someone else’s report. You may see adverts for “IMEI repair” or “IMEI cleaning”. What they offer is usually to change the number the phone reports, so it no longer matches the list. In the UK, changing a phone’s IMEI is a criminal offence, and other countries have similar rules. Please don’t pay for it.
We won’t help remove a blacklisting
Neither will any honest service. A report exists to protect the person who lost the phone, and the right outcome is for it to go back to them or for you to get your money back.
What to do, step by step
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Stop using it
Take your SIM card out and don’t sign in to your own accounts. Keep the phone safe, switched off, with everything it came with.
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Gather your evidence
Save the listing, your messages with the seller, the receipt or payment confirmation, and a note of the IMEI. Screenshots are fine.
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Contact the seller in writing
Explain that the phone is blocked and ask for a refund. Keep it calm and factual. Some sellers genuinely didn’t know.
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Go to your payment provider or the platform
If the seller won’t help, use the buyer protection that came with how you paid. The next section explains the options.
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Don’t sell it on
It’s tempting to pass it on and recover something, but that moves the problem to another person and could land you in trouble.
Getting your money back
If you bought it from a business
A phone that can’t connect to a mobile network isn’t what you paid for. In the UK, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 says goods bought from a trader must be as described and fit for purpose, and you normally have 30 days to reject faulty goods for a full refund. In the US, start with the seller’s return policy, and your state’s consumer protection office can tell you where you stand.
If you paid through a marketplace or by card
- eBay and similar marketplaces usually cover items that aren’t as described. Open a case through the order, not by message.
- PayPal covers purchases paid as “Goods and Services”. Payments sent as friends and family generally aren’t protected.
- Debit or credit card payments can often be disputed with your bank through a chargeback.
- UK credit cards: for items costing between £100 and £30,000, Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act can make the card company jointly responsible with the seller.
All of these have time limits, often counted in weeks, so act as soon as you find out. If you paid in cash or by bank transfer to a stranger, your options are fewer, and reporting it quickly matters even more.
This is general information, not legal advice. Citizens Advice in the UK, or your state consumer office in the US, can help with your own situation.
If you think it was stolen
If the check shows the phone was reported stolen, or something about the sale now feels wrong, tell the police. In the UK you can call 101. In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, fraud can be reported to Report Fraud at reportfraud.police.uk. In the US, contact your local police, and fraud can also be reported to the FTC at reportfraud.ftc.gov.
If you bought the phone honestly, you usually won’t be in trouble for it. You may be asked to hand the phone over so it can go back to its owner, which is another reason to keep your proof of payment and chase the seller for a refund.
If it’s your own phone
Sometimes the phone on the list is one you reported yourself, then found down the back of the sofa. That’s easy to sort. Contact the network you reported it to, tell them you have it back, and ask them to remove the report. They may ask you to prove it’s yours, so have the IMEI and your account details ready.
If the block is for an unpaid bill on your own contract, speak to the network about settling it. Once it’s paid, they can usually lift the block.
Where our check can help
Our diagnosis looks up the phone’s IMEI and tells you whether it has been reported lost or stolen, as well as which network it’s locked to where its records show it and, on an iPhone, whether Activation Lock is on. You get the answer in plain English straight away, and a copy by email. That written record can help when you ask a seller or your bank for a refund.
If the phone has been reported, we say so clearly and we don’t offer a fix. We explain your options instead, much like this guide.
If your phone is showing “blocked” or won’t take a SIM right now, our page on a phone that says it’s blocked walks through the next steps. And if you’re about to buy another second-hand phone, read how to check a used iPhone before you buy first.